tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-238776622024-02-20T14:10:17.039-08:00'Bugs NewsLeast-toxic control of ants, bed bugs, cockroaches, fleas, head lice, lawn/garden pests, mosquitoes, termites, wood boring insects, yellowjackets and most other household pests.Jack DeAngelis, Ph.D.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06229569735883223879noreply@blogger.comBlogger88125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-23877662.post-30335020253502479582019-03-19T08:29:00.009-07:002020-12-19T09:01:44.164-08:00Best use of ant baits and ant traps in homes.<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiDoNJ3_Pc306Bsq5VVZKkWOjppcFs5c3jQJFVK4C1Yqiw-tB5Za0att2lrb9_xnV-hRFikPmPAuZrsuLVjzjcuoDYXWAmcN62gH3PHlJ5B_16rQMQ4PI46aDBEdfqEMIODWRYiw/s1600/ant_bait.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="210" data-original-width="230" height="182" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiDoNJ3_Pc306Bsq5VVZKkWOjppcFs5c3jQJFVK4C1Yqiw-tB5Za0att2lrb9_xnV-hRFikPmPAuZrsuLVjzjcuoDYXWAmcN62gH3PHlJ5B_16rQMQ4PI46aDBEdfqEMIODWRYiw/s200/ant_bait.jpg" title="ants encircling a drop of liquid bait" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">ants feeding at liquid bait </span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;"><span>As warm weather arrives in the spring higher temperatures may activate ant nests both inside and outside your home. You will see increased ant activity as nests resume nest-building and production of young worker ants. All this activity requires <b>food</b> so ants will be out foraging for new food sources.</span></span></span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><br />
<span style="font-family: Open Sans;">Control of the <b>common household nuisance ants</b> (not carpenter ants) is best done with baits, rather than insecticide sprays which only kill the ants the spray contacts. And the simplest and least expensive is a drop of sugary liquid food that has been combined with boric acid (borate).</span><br /></span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">During spring ants are most attracted to sugary foods (carbohydrate) because of the high energy demand of nest building. If a scout worker finds a bit of sugary food she (all worker ants are female) will recruit her nestmates to the food source (see photo above).</span><br />
</span></span></p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFl7gOu2D9rBMa3Yj8qU6TA0MDNvMfP_47lyzyUkFB1kyYPTcU_zKaxd21ygjAbyCaK7eHt4orvVlSAkyTLYC7kxNFCQQADH7nltXsO50NERY6278Y5WDC9AeMXnYeDAn4UZ5PUA/s1600/station.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="154" data-original-width="227" height="135" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFl7gOu2D9rBMa3Yj8qU6TA0MDNvMfP_47lyzyUkFB1kyYPTcU_zKaxd21ygjAbyCaK7eHt4orvVlSAkyTLYC7kxNFCQQADH7nltXsO50NERY6278Y5WDC9AeMXnYeDAn4UZ5PUA/s200/station.jpg" title="ant bait station on waxed paper" width="200" /></a></p></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><p><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">bait station on wax paper</span></span></p></td></tr></tbody></table><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">
<span style="font-family: Open Sans;">Borate, a salt of boric acid, is toxic to insects when consumed. So a simple bait made from borate and a sugary liquid such as corn syrup is very effective. Baits can be homemade (see the <b>ant baits</b> article below) but keep the borate concentration to <b>less than</b> 5%. However, several commercial products are so inexpensive that most people just purchase the bait from their local home store or even grocery store. Terro (tm) is one such highly effective ant bait product.</span></span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">
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<span style="font-family: Open Sans;">Place your bait stations where you see ant activity and give it a few days to start working. If after a few days (often after only a few hours) you don't see ants actively feeding on the bait you can move the station to a new location. <i>You should see a noticeable reduction in ant activity within a week of starting your control program, perhaps even sooner.</i></span></span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: verdana;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">Continue reading <a href="http://livingwithbugs.com/ant_bait.html" target="_blank">ant baits</a> (LivingWithBugs) for details about how all this works.</span><br /></span></span></p><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: verdana;">
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__________Jack DeAngelis, Ph.D.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06229569735883223879noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-23877662.post-57560566721844885772019-03-18T09:33:00.002-07:002020-12-19T11:27:33.585-08:00What are these notches on rhododendron leaves?
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2wEt3CFrcMtbdLQM2OrPIWwpEzWsb-GDtEqBu9qeKFYSJZi7rwxpPi-FoU4kMg__e3k4zjPqTec3ycuUTftynLViyIf49_n-aDbSz7B_-YwIVQkz3nlsdVohwEGOj3jq5G5DcPw/s1600/new_notc.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="187" data-original-width="212" height="176" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2wEt3CFrcMtbdLQM2OrPIWwpEzWsb-GDtEqBu9qeKFYSJZi7rwxpPi-FoU4kMg__e3k4zjPqTec3ycuUTftynLViyIf49_n-aDbSz7B_-YwIVQkz3nlsdVohwEGOj3jq5G5DcPw/s200/new_notc.jpg" title="leaf notches on rhododendron" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">notches on rhody leaves</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">Many landscape plants will show <b>leaf notching</b> as new leaves start to grow in spring and early summer. Rhododendron is particularly susceptible but a number of other popular landscape and garden plants may show the same type of damage. Often you will not find any obvious cause or culprit.</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
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The cause and culprit in this case are adult <b>root weevils</b> (snout beetles). There are many species of root weevil (Curculionidae) but all exhibit the same general life cycle. Worm-like larvae feed on plant roots for most of the year, adult beetles (weevils) emerge from the soil in spring or summer, feed (notch) on leaves of the host plant, lay eggs then die. The real damage therefore is to the <b>root system</b> of affected plants but it is the leaf notching that catches the attention of gardeners.</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
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</p><div style="text-align: right;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEim2NF9AgGt4_JCFmdG2ZKoRcOlkGBqA_0PY2ryXYoSGsSxvO1hs_BeK-pQbd9yTAn9uX8ihJgqInrwahjCyrgSc0eLZhyphenhyphenU0YoqlobjnCyMBOvtZdL775K0R0nmsHmpUAxbI4bHGw/s1600/bvw_ad.tif" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="300" data-original-width="450" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEim2NF9AgGt4_JCFmdG2ZKoRcOlkGBqA_0PY2ryXYoSGsSxvO1hs_BeK-pQbd9yTAn9uX8ihJgqInrwahjCyrgSc0eLZhyphenhyphenU0YoqlobjnCyMBOvtZdL775K0R0nmsHmpUAxbI4bHGw/s200/bvw_ad.tif" title="black vine weevil adult" width="200" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><p><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">black vine weevil adult</span></span></p></td></tr></tbody></table><p><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;"></span></span></p></div><p style="text-align: left;">
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The best way to protect your landscape and garden plants from root weevil damage is to <i>control adult weevils in the spring and early summer before they have a chance to lay eggs</i> for the next generation of root-feeding larvae. <i>So, timing is critical.</i></span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
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Fortunately leaf notches are a perfect way to time when adult weevils are starting to emerge and feed. As soon as you see new notches appear in spring/early summer start your control program!</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
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Leaves can be treated with a variety of garden insecticides to stop weevils from feeding. <a href="http://www.livingwithbugs.com/neem_oil.html" target="_blank">Neem oil</a> insecticide is a low toxicity choice that works well.</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">Continue reading <a href="http://livingwithbugs.com/root_wev.html" target="_blank">root weevil control options for gardeners</a> (LivingWithBugs) for details.<br /></span></span></p>
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<br />Jack DeAngelis, Ph.D.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06229569735883223879noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-23877662.post-55776833790795474942018-02-12T10:45:00.001-08:002020-12-19T11:44:46.396-08:00Using Insecticidal Soap in Home Gardens<style type="text/css">p { margin-bottom: 0.1in; line-height: 120%; }</style>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeQFPBIZ1JCCqOmBsnjd1udBelRiMjA6DdolGjnEFCkB_5xPPzTqgfKScu2beJ_xSdRRsVVwmavaDp8fbHD1L4zRM6Ghzvvs1iyG7LheuhHY-E7Kxv0bpP0ZL3sB9MVrOTp2_Cfw/s1600/SM+%2528line%2529.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="288" data-original-width="170" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeQFPBIZ1JCCqOmBsnjd1udBelRiMjA6DdolGjnEFCkB_5xPPzTqgfKScu2beJ_xSdRRsVVwmavaDp8fbHD1L4zRM6Ghzvvs1iyG7LheuhHY-E7Kxv0bpP0ZL3sB9MVrOTp2_Cfw/w118-h200/SM+%2528line%2529.jpg" width="118" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">spider mite (drawing)<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p><br /><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">Home gardeners are always on the lookout for ways to control garden pests like <b>spider mites</b> and <b>aphids</b>.
Methods that are both inexpensive and non-toxic are the “holy grail” of
<b>garden pest control</b>. Folks often turn to home brew recipes that either
don’t work or in some cases actually injure the very plants they are
trying to treat.</span></span> </span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">The good news is that there are a few commercial products that satisfy the criteria of inexpensive and non-toxic, AND, <b>actually work</b>, for these important garden pests. The very first tool in this category (cheap & non-toxic) that every gardener should have is a fresh container of <b>Insecticidal Soap</b> concentrate. The “fresh” part is very important as we’ll see below.<br /><br /> Insecticidal Soap is a highly refined liquid soap that is generally diluted to 1-2% just prior to use. It should be applied with a small hand-pump sprayer. It is very effective against a variety of garden pests (see the product label for a complete list) but especially soft-bodied, early-season pests like <b>aphids</b> and <b>spider mites</b>.<br /><br /> Insecticidal Soap is NOT the same as dish soap! Dish or laundry soap can <b>kill delicate garden plants</b>. Also be warned that stale, old Insecticidal Soap can be toxic to garden plants so be sure to use only fresh concentrate to mix up your solution. To ensure fresh concentrate I generally purchase a new container every spring and discard unused concentrate in the fall. Leftover concentrate can be used as a regular soap to clean the greenhouse, outdoor furniture, and so forth (we even use it to scrub the deck boards).<br /><br /> Insecticidal Soap is no more toxic than ordinary liquid soap, is relatively inexpensive, at least compared to other garden insecticides, and works. Just be sure to follow label instructions and <i>DON’T use old concentrate</i>!</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">Continue reading <a href="http://livingwithbugs.com/insecticidal_soap.html" target="_blank">Using Insecticidal Soap</a> for garden pests (LivingWithBugs) for a way to determine if the soap concentrate will damage garden plants.<br /> <br /> </span></span>__________<br /> </p>Jack DeAngelis, Ph.D.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06229569735883223879noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-23877662.post-7395563263977203962017-01-30T08:51:00.001-08:002020-12-19T12:18:38.297-08:00What To Do About A Flea Infestation At Home<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_EbQNEFfqq72_CEuhAWTpvZo2NZ6v1xxhwcykxGE2dYb7DYkzQxY6p-U3KoTN0PbYfKbVo3gaIO6lsy7Vzu3-95DmUSqpDayrv9Q4EAuG9OlDab9J4Mhv9feKZRYEs-JFNEhC8g/s1600/flea.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_EbQNEFfqq72_CEuhAWTpvZo2NZ6v1xxhwcykxGE2dYb7DYkzQxY6p-U3KoTN0PbYfKbVo3gaIO6lsy7Vzu3-95DmUSqpDayrv9Q4EAuG9OlDab9J4Mhv9feKZRYEs-JFNEhC8g/s1600/flea.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">adult flea</td></tr>
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<p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;"><b><i>Help! Fleas in my house are biting me ... what should I do?</i></b> This<b><i> </i></b>is a common question and it sometimes even comes from people who <b>don't own pets</b> (see below). With modern flea medications (insecticides) and shampoos, however, fleas <b>should</b> be only a distant bad memory - unfortunately, for many, they are not.</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
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If fleas really are the problem, and it's not something else that is biting you, then <b>flea medications applied directly to your pets</b> may be the easy answer. If, however, you would prefer not to use these relatively expensive topical medications then be prepared to devote some time and elbow grease but either way the problem can be solved - <b>neither you nor your pets should have to live with fleas any longer</b>.</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
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First, let's make sure that fleas really are the cause of the bites. Flea bites often occur on the <b>lower legs</b> because fleas can't fly they can only hop onto passing hosts. If furniture or bedding is infested then bites can occur anywhere on your body. For most people flea bites are very similar in appearance to small mosquito bites. So, what a bite looks like is not necessarily a good indication of what caused it. If you find fleas far away from where your pet sleeps it is a pretty good sign that the infestation is severe since <b>fleas try to stay as close to the host animal as possible</b>.</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
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<b><span>Flea control on pets and in homes</span></b></span></span></h4><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
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Fleas infest animals and their nest (pet bedding) so you must first control the fleas <b>on your pet</b> and <b>in the pet's bedding</b> to have any chance of eliminating them from your house. The easiest way to control fleas on your pet and in their bedding are the topical flea medications like Frontline (tm) (or any generic equivalent that contains the active ingredient <b>fipronil</b>). </span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
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There are also a variety of flea medications given in pill form but these all <b>require a prescription</b> from your vet and are considerably more expensive than topical meds like Frontline.</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
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Finally, the least expensive but most time-consuming approach is to carefully shampoo and comb your pet using a good quality flea shampoo and flea comb followed by treating the home with a spray containing the active ingredient methoprene to "break the flea's life cycle". Shampoos and combing will need to be repeated as long as you find live fleas on the pet or in the pet's bedding.</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
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Confused? Continue reading <a href="http://www.livingwithbugs.com/flea_con.html" target="_blank">flea control</a> (LivingWithBugs) for a bit more detail regarding these treatments.<br /></span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
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<span><b>Do fleas ever infest homes that don't have pets?</b></span></span></span></h4><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
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<b>Yes and no</b>. Flea pupae, the "resting" stage between immature flea larvae and adult fleas, can survive in an empty home for extended periods, sometimes as long as <b>many months</b>. When a new occupant moves in the pupae may "hatch" into biting, adult fleas. These hungry, newly emerged fleas will bite people making it appear that an empty, pet-less house is infested. However, since humans are not good hosts for cat and dog fleas they won't survive long on our blood alone, but they will make your life miserable until they finally die off.</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
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In this special case, since there are no animals to treat with a topical flea med, you'll need to rely on insecticides to the manage the infestation. Try a <a href="http://www.livingwithbugs.com/botanical_insecticide.html" target="_blank">botanical insecticide</a> like <b>EcoPCO AR-X</b> as a low toxicity alternative to the usual sprays. A good botanical insecticide should keep the adult fleas under control until the absense of their normal host eliminates the population.<br /></span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">__________ <br /></span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
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Jack DeAngelis, Ph.D.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06229569735883223879noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-23877662.post-43591782647647438182017-01-29T11:27:00.002-08:002020-12-19T15:53:57.373-08:00Itchy Bug Bites - And Things That Look Like Bug Bites<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVYsPEauHkx1zxylfCrEx4pwKO-xaPW8UWsAm8_9hWEWTsNIk7IyxDnYjIWvdtnwxtdcQJwDNDGKYe5c35pVQ75ow8hQj9rXtqNC8Iv5jzTSNSws6B4_gN639iyRRW9B7WEkcmmg/s1600/pyemotes_rash.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" height="190" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVYsPEauHkx1zxylfCrEx4pwKO-xaPW8UWsAm8_9hWEWTsNIk7IyxDnYjIWvdtnwxtdcQJwDNDGKYe5c35pVQ75ow8hQj9rXtqNC8Iv5jzTSNSws6B4_gN639iyRRW9B7WEkcmmg/s200/pyemotes_rash.jpg" title="itchy bug bites" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;"><span><b>itchy bug bites</b></span></span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">There are few things more maddening than the <b>itch</b> resulting from the bite of some insects and mites. So it is a good thing that there are only a <i>small number of insects and mites</i> that actually bite people.</span></span></p><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
</span></span><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
However, if you are being affected by what you believe are <b>bug bites</b> but are not sure what is causing your discomfort check the list below of insects and mites that actually do bite people. The links go to articles at LivingWithBugs (our main "Bug" site) for ways to identify and then manage each of these common pests.</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
Then, if none of these seem right check out some of the other <b>causes of skin lesions</b> that can look a lot like bug bites below the list.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
</span></span></p><ul style="text-align: left;">
<li><p>
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;"><a href="http://www.livingwithbugs.com/bird_mites.html" target="_blank">bird mites</a> (aka nest mites, rodent mites)<span style="font-weight: normal;"> - many people believe they or their homes are infested with these mites. They are actually much less common than people think. </span></span></span></p>
</li>
</ul><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
</span></span><ul style="text-align: left;">
<li><p>
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;"><a href="http://www.livingwithbugs.com/bed_bug.html" target="_blank">bed bugs</a></span></span></p>
</li>
</ul><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
</span></span><ul style="text-align: left;">
<li><p>
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;"><a href="http://www.livingwithbugs.com/black_fly.html" target="_blank">black flies</a> (outdoors only) </span></span></p>
</li>
</ul><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
</span></span><ul style="text-align: left;">
<li><p>
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;"><a href="http://www.livingwithbugs.com/swe_itch.html" target="_blank">biting midges</a> (outdoors only)</span></span></p>
</li>
</ul><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
</span></span><ul style="text-align: left;">
<li><p>
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;"><a href="http://www.livingwithbugs.com/chigger.html" target="_blank">chigger mites</a></span></span></p>
</li>
</ul><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
</span></span><ul style="text-align: left;">
<li><p>
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;"><a href="http://www.livingwithbugs.com/fleas.html" target="_blank">fleas</a></span></span></p>
</li>
</ul><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
</span></span><ul style="text-align: left;">
<li><p>
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;"><a href="http://www.livingwithbugs.com/headlice.html" target="_blank">lice</a></span></span> </p>
</li>
</ul><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
</span></span><ul style="text-align: left;">
<li><p>
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;"><a href="http://www.livingwithbugs.com/mosquitoes.html" target="_blank">mosquitoes</a></span></span> </p>
</li>
</ul><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
</span></span><ul style="text-align: left;">
<li><p>
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;"><a href="http://www.livingwithbugs.com/pyemotes_itch_mites.html" target="_blank">pymotes itch mites</a> </span></span></p>
</li>
</ul><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
</span></span><ul style="text-align: left;">
<li><p>
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;"><a href="http://www.livingwithbugs.com/scabies.html" target="_blank">scabies mites</a></span></span></p>
</li>
</ul><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
</span></span><h3><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
What if your bug is not on this list?</span></span></h3><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
If none of these bugs are found then maybe something else is causing the "bites". Many things can <b>mimic bug bites</b> and cause very similar skin lesions. Red, swollen, and itchy are the usual symptoms. <b>Physical irritants</b> such as fibreglass insulation and a variety of <b>allergies</b> (food, contact, respiratory) are the most common.</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
Another factor that can be important is any <b>prior experience</b> with a biting pest that you might have had. For example, recently I was contacted by someone that a year before had been bitten by bed bugs in a motel. Needless to say this encounter was both dramatic and traumatizing. Now, a year later, they have developed a rash, probably caused by an <b>allergy to mold</b>, but because of the earlier experience they are convinced that bed bugs are causing the "bites". No evidence of bed bugs are ever found in this case. The lesson is - <i>ours brains are sometimes very good at fooling us into believing things that just are not true!</i></span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
If you are searching for the cause of "<a href="http://www.livingwithbugs.com/unknown_bug_bites.html" target="_blank">mysterious bites</a>" first eliminate the obvious things from the list above but then start thinking about some other possibilities like <b>allergies</b> and <b>irritants</b>.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
Finally, and perhaps most important, our level of <b>anxiety</b> can greatly influence how we see and react to the world. In the example above, the person was extremely anxious because of their previous encounter with bed bugs. Combined with the appearance of a skin rash that looked a little like the old bed bug bites it is <b>not</b> hard to understand how they jumped to the conclusion that bed bugs were the culprit.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">__________ </span></span><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;"><br />
</span></span><br /></p>Jack DeAngelis, Ph.D.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06229569735883223879noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-23877662.post-70262338170700677132017-01-28T10:21:00.002-08:002020-12-19T16:05:18.034-08:00New Head Lice Guidlines for Schools<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg62QrJGGlrnbb1245WgbXhLEo-UrSppsrHRrxXN1iUSBwLXp4zZpCprcDdeMnrO7nzt4vTgNjcdUEWFLZn_0FcqkhwdNA6_eiSi9A2EgTuiwgd4ioiSquMya1YW01mBYkjdWN_aw/s1600/louse.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="louse" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg62QrJGGlrnbb1245WgbXhLEo-UrSppsrHRrxXN1iUSBwLXp4zZpCprcDdeMnrO7nzt4vTgNjcdUEWFLZn_0FcqkhwdNA6_eiSi9A2EgTuiwgd4ioiSquMya1YW01mBYkjdWN_aw/s1600/louse.jpg" title="louse" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">Louse</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;"><b><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">Updated 1/28/17</span></b></span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">I, and many other entomologists, have <a href="http://www.livingwithbugs.com/headlice.html" target="_blank">argued for a long time</a> that a diagnosis of <b>head lice</b> is <b>no reason to keep kids out of school</b>, or to otherwise s<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">ingle</span> them out for special treatment. It now seems that the American Academy of <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">Pediatrics</span> agrees. The new AAP guidelines are aimed mostly at schools and are released at a time when many schools still suspend students that show any signs of head lice, including simple head-scratching and/or the presence of nits (<a href="http://www.livingwithbugs.com/lice_nits.html" target="_blank">lice eggs</a>).</span></span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">In a <a href="https://healthychildren.org/English/news/Pages/AAP-Offers-Updated-Guidance-on-Treating-Head-Lice.aspx" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">recent article</a> the AAP now recommends that: </span></span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;">
</p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><p><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">no-nit policies <span style="background-color: yellow;">(1)</span> should be <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">s<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">uspended</span></span></span></span></span></p></li></ul><p style="text-align: left;">
</p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><p><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">head lice should not be treated as a serious medical issue but instead as a simple nuisance</span></span></span></p></li></ul><p style="text-align: left;">
</p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><p><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">head lice should not be considered an indication of unsanitary conditions</span></span></span></p></li></ul><p style="text-align: left;">
</p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><p><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">head lice should be diagnosed by a pediatrician, not by nit-screen<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">ers</span> at school</span></span></span></p></li></ul><p style="text-align: left;">
</p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><p><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">and, that excessive cleaning at home/school is not needed </span></span></span></p></li></ul><p style="text-align: left;">
</p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
<span><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><span>Most head lice infestations can be <a href="http://www.livingwithbugs.com/headlice.html" target="_blank">managed at home</a> with over-the-counter medications and lice combing. <i>There is no reason to exclude kids from school following a diagnosis of head lice.</i> I understand that is can be a very contentious issue with parents but school administrators now have a new tool in the <b>AAP Guidelines</b> to back a decision to ease<span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"> </span>off on current draconian measures in the face of what is in reality a relatively minor nuisance pest.</span></span></span></span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
<span><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><span>Remember, according to the best scientific evidence, <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">head lice <b><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">d</span>o not spread disease</b><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"> nor</span> are they an indication of <b>unsanitary conditions</b>.</span> </span></span></span></span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
<i><span> <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><span style="background-color: yellow;">(1)</span> <span style="color: black;">Under this policy <span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif">schools</span> may prevent students from entering the building
if they exhibit signs of a head lice infestation.
The sign most often used is the presence of nits, or
eggs, in hair. If nits are found, or even just suspected,
all students may be subjected to inspection.
Students that are believed to have nits may be
excluded from class and sent home for treatment.</span></span></span></i></span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;"><i><span><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif"><span style="color: black;">__________ <br /></span></span></span></i></span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
</span></span></p>Jack DeAngelis, Ph.D.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06229569735883223879noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-23877662.post-49369446697705415712013-10-15T12:31:00.001-07:002020-12-20T08:30:57.670-08:00New Roach Baits Can Eliminate Tough Infestations<div style="text-align: left;">
</div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiW0Xk2LN-zy138taTpTxEe0Gqobznf3u3qd-skgSscgi2VGMO137uvvt1vnb1cUzauqXdIEl7MNUgFOXumCN4UiOMSm9Osm8R6Lb-Of0ztQd2BILvIJUwIEdgt0r17nCYGT2-s0g/s1600/german.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiW0Xk2LN-zy138taTpTxEe0Gqobznf3u3qd-skgSscgi2VGMO137uvvt1vnb1cUzauqXdIEl7MNUgFOXumCN4UiOMSm9Osm8R6Lb-Of0ztQd2BILvIJUwIEdgt0r17nCYGT2-s0g/s1600/german.jpg" title="German cockroach" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">cockroach</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;"><span face="Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif">Until fairly recently the control of the large and stubborn cockroach infestations that can plague apartment buildings, food handling facilities and commercial buildings depended on the so-called "<b>spray and pray</b>" method. In other words you <i><b>spray</b> as much insecticide as possible and <b>pray</b> that it works</i>. Most of the time this method in fact fails but it sure makes a lot of money for pesticide manufacturers! It fails for several reasons but the main reason is that <i>cockroaches can detect and learn to avoid pesticide residues</i>.</span></span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
</span></span></p><h4 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
<b><span face="Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif">New Research on Roach Baits<br /></span></b></span></span></h4><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
<span face="Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif">Researchers have recently figured out that if you combine a highly attractive food with a small amount of <b>slow-acting insecticide</b> the results are much better. Roaches find the bait, eat it and thereby contaminate themselves with the insecticide. Because the insecticide is slow to take effect the roaches have time to get back to the <b>harborage</b> (a safe area, such as inside a wall, where cockroaches congregate) where they contaminate their mates and disrupt the whole colony. Baits take longer to work but they offer the promise of <b>complete control of even large infestations</b>.</span></span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
</span></span></p><h4 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
<span face="Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif"><b>Professional versus consumer-level cockroach baits </b></span></span></span></h4><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
<span face="Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif">There are many cockroach baits on the market, some are even sold through grocery stores and home stores. Because the new baits are significantly more expensive then the older products they have been relegated to "professional" status. This is unfortunate because it makes them harder for the consumer to find and the result is many people faced with a cockroach infestation resort to insecticide sprays - the old, failed, spray and pray method. The good news is that professional-quality baits are now available but you have to shop online to find them.</span></span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
<span face="Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif"><b>Continue reading</b> --> I have posted a revised page about these new cockroach baits at our 'Bugs site (<a href="http://www.livingwithbugs.com/cockroach_baits.html" rel="" target="_blank">click here</a>) including a link to an online source.</span></span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;"><span face="Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif">__________ <br /></span></span></span></p>
Jack DeAngelis, Ph.D.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06229569735883223879noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-23877662.post-38149074291983638202013-04-30T13:43:00.005-07:002020-12-24T12:12:46.520-08:00Brownish-Green Mites Invade Homes - Oh, My!<p style="text-align: left;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj9h6f_UzZ8gjJ6dBzEa3VM0iTKCgX5Xzn-9lJDgXeFiBX0b9uM7a4V_5tgYd58z-7XcEFdzHMj2hyphenhyphenVjyo_R8EJBssofZvAdXilIPRH1UFXCK_Vp92aN5or6hRAa6jJDef4aSMIg/s286/clover_mite_small.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="252" data-original-width="286" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj9h6f_UzZ8gjJ6dBzEa3VM0iTKCgX5Xzn-9lJDgXeFiBX0b9uM7a4V_5tgYd58z-7XcEFdzHMj2hyphenhyphenVjyo_R8EJBssofZvAdXilIPRH1UFXCK_Vp92aN5or6hRAa6jJDef4aSMIg/s0/clover_mite_small.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">clover mite ~ size of period (.)<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;"><span><span><span face="Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif">Have you ever found masses of brownish-green mites that seem to be <b>invading your home</b>?
You may have found large numbers around a window or on a counter top.
If you crush the mites they leave a greenish stain. If you look closely, you might have seen long front legs like the mite in the photo
(left). These long legs are often <b>mistaken for antennae</b>.</span></span></span></span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;"><span><span>
</span></span></span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;"><span><span>
<span face="Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif">You probably found <b>clover mites</b>.
Clover mites are actually a type of <a href="http://www.livingwithbugs.com/spider_mites.html" target="_blank">spider mite</a> that feeds on plants and they
occasionally enter homes from plants growing along the foundation of
your home, entering through open windows or cracks.</span></span></span></span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;"><span><span>
</span></span></span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;"><span><span>
<span face="Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif">Most
spider mites rarely if ever leave their host plants but clover mites
are a little different. For reasons that are not entirely clear these
mites will start a sort of "<b>mass migration</b>", often in the spring,
that can end with large numbers of mites on your interior walls and
counters. Rest assured the mites are completely <b>harmless</b> except for the
potential for staining of interior furnishings if crushed. They do not
bite and will not infest food or other household items. In fact, mites
that are found inside can be simply swept up, <b>insecticides are not needed nor are they very effective in this case</b>. </span></span></span></span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;"><span><span>
</span></span></span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;"><span><span>
<span face="Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif">The key to stopping mites from entering homes is to <b>manage the source - the plants growing around your home's foundation. </b>Plants
can be removed or simply cut back so they don't lay against the house.
Try to maintain a gap of at least 12" between foundation plantings and
the house. I've recently posted an article at our 'Bugs site that spells
out more ways to <a href="http://www.livingwithbugs.com/clover_mite.html" target="_blank">manage clover mites and keep them outside</a>.</span></span></span></span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;"><span><span><span face="Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif">__________ </span></span></span></span></span></p>Jack DeAngelis, Ph.D.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06229569735883223879noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-23877662.post-43587770946988414162013-02-26T19:51:00.002-08:002020-12-20T09:01:15.604-08:00Big, Brown Bugs Invade Homes<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1ZWR49HIa81Rs2TtEe_kYO3YIDCHBIWdMaEsUci_UY47R2WyD9PgywhUwcl1a9ZTD3wd5BrCwq54OL2tb1p_kZZUPVPalKZcwJpFQNya5wWeq-rcU38Mz2GQdcreEFvVLDzAE8g/s1600/IMG_1550.JPG" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1ZWR49HIa81Rs2TtEe_kYO3YIDCHBIWdMaEsUci_UY47R2WyD9PgywhUwcl1a9ZTD3wd5BrCwq54OL2tb1p_kZZUPVPalKZcwJpFQNya5wWeq-rcU38Mz2GQdcreEFvVLDzAE8g/s1600/IMG_1550.JPG" title="brown marmorated stink bug" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">brown marmorated stink bug</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">During the last few weeks I've gotten numerous questions through my <a href="http://www.livingwithbugs.com/">'Bugs site</a> about "large, brown bugs" in homes. Several people have sent images like the one to the left. They describe the bug as about 3/4" long, brown in color, and they sometimes mention the white or brown alternating marks around the back-end.</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
The questions are almost always -<i> what is it, is it dangerous, and how do I get rid of it?</i></span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
This big, brown bug is the <b>brown marmorated stink bug</b>, a relatively new nuisance pest in parts of the US. It is an introduced pest (not native to the US) and is rapidly spreading to new parts of the country. My guess is that in a relatively short time most areas of the country will be home to this new insect.</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
The bugs are completely <b>harmless</b> but have the annoying habit of congregating on and entering homes in the fall. Their objective is to find a warm place to spend the winter and will leave in the spring to resume their normal life cycle. However, during their winter vacation they can be an unwanted house guest - to say the least!</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
For more information about <b>identifying the brown marmorated stink bug</b> and<b> protecting homes</b> (including insecticide treatments) from this new invader, see <a href="http://www.livingwithbugs.com/brown_marmorated_stinkbug.html" target="_blank">this article</a> at our 'Bugs site. We also have articles about the closely related <a href="http://www.livingwithbugs.com/boxelder.html" target="_blank">boxelder bugs</a>. </span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">__________<br /></span></span></p>
<br />
<br />Jack DeAngelis, Ph.D.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06229569735883223879noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-23877662.post-54093072775082361622012-11-12T11:28:00.001-08:002020-12-20T08:54:59.968-08:00Tiny, Shiny, Reddish-Brown Beetles - Spider Beetles<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEUhVaabidPtC3QbNWjO14qUx0XGEuy7ptL681e4GUuFgCH4rCMlbIUHnm4KZ74GaTFnyUGtZwEgOW6SuRAmv6LoshEz9bdyx5_EYB1NmqRzZfx8WvYMbgVqcILHcMm5naIb_gbA/s1600/spider_beetle.JPG" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="248" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEUhVaabidPtC3QbNWjO14qUx0XGEuy7ptL681e4GUuFgCH4rCMlbIUHnm4KZ74GaTFnyUGtZwEgOW6SuRAmv6LoshEz9bdyx5_EYB1NmqRzZfx8WvYMbgVqcILHcMm5naIb_gbA/s320/spider_beetle.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">spider beetle, shiny, hump-backed, reddish-brown </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;"><span><span>These tiny beetles are <b>fairly uncommon</b> but because they <b>resemble mites or even bed bugs</b> they get a lot of reaction from homeowners when they are found.</span></span></span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
<span><span>Spider beetles are small (1.5 - 4mm), shiny, hump-backed, reddish-brown beetles that are considered to be <b>minor stored product pests (they infest stored foods and natural fa<span>brics)</span></b>. They are usually not a major problem in homes but can damage museum collections of animals and dried insects. These beetles are especially<b> common in older apartment buildings</b>.</span></span></span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;"><span><span>On first sight people sometimes mistakenly identify spider beetles as mites or bed bugs. They are of course completely unrelated to either of these critters.</span></span>
</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;"><span><span>The majority of questions I get about spider beetles come from <b>New York City</b> but these beetles occur in other regions o<span>f the country </span>as well. There are at least three species that can be found in homes.</span></span>
</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;"><span><span>Since spider beetles are general scavengers they can infest a wide variety of organic debris so finding a few beetles is generally not a reason for concern.
<b>Cleaning and food source elimination is usually enough to manage the infestation. Insecticides are not needed nor are they very effective in this case.</b></span></span></span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;"><span><span>Identification and control tips for a wide variety of other
<b>household pests</b> can be found at our main site <a href="http://www.livingwithbugs.com/" target="_blank">LivingWithBugs</a><span> and</span> DIY pest control supplies, including traps and baits, can be found <a href="http://www.shareasale.com/r.cfm?B=414286&U=680270&M=43235&urllink=">here</a> (DoMyOwn.com, our affiliate).</span></span></span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
</span></span></p><div style="text-align: center;"><p>
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;"><span><span>__________</span></span></span></span></p></div>
Jack DeAngelis, Ph.D.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06229569735883223879noreply@blogger.com11tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-23877662.post-26240634568634802292012-09-05T10:46:00.001-07:002020-12-24T12:19:46.406-08:00Types of Mites <table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-left: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYa1AibD97zI4E1UsXTlHRZu3JAF-pQB0fxOu4m5TVhYEzi8sqNRvl-L04nZMQNjyhomnYPO0QlWSfdgUkFODQOO4jDulf69IgccRx9kJC9lQL5Om9BXnBh7qXVfaTM70LzqcvRg/s1600/demodex.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYa1AibD97zI4E1UsXTlHRZu3JAF-pQB0fxOu4m5TVhYEzi8sqNRvl-L04nZMQNjyhomnYPO0QlWSfdgUkFODQOO4jDulf69IgccRx9kJC9lQL5Om9BXnBh7qXVfaTM70LzqcvRg/s200/demodex.jpg" title="demodex follicle mite" width="82" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">follicle mite</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h4><b>Mites live on plants, in the soil, in our homes, and sometimes even on us!</b></h4><p style="text-align: left;">
Mites are among most <b>abundant</b> and <b>diverse</b>
animal groups on earth. Mites occur literally everywhere; in our
homes, on our garden plants, in the soil at our feet, and some even live
on us -- so it is indeed a good thing that most are so small that they
are barely visible!</p><p style="text-align: left;">
A "typical" mite is about the size of a grain of salt but some, such as <a href="http://www.livingwithbugs.com/ticks.html" target="_blank">ticks</a> (yes, ticks are a type of mite), can be as large as your fingernail while others like the <a href="http://www.livingwithbugs.com/mange.html" target="_blank">demodex follicle mite</a> (left) are small enough to live <i>inside</i> a normal hair follicle, with room to spare.</p>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjBc8z3lS5KYfw8ZJPIXoeagS1px-hzjjXnc7ByDZfQTirr8atEe5ezCyxenIxcaCYcbTrOV_tU3Nq1rNZtLq7qPnuB9N-4GeM_CZqMHY1BUnhJf88atyTAIG4l1ezozSj0mbsnA/s1600/recluse.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjBc8z3lS5KYfw8ZJPIXoeagS1px-hzjjXnc7ByDZfQTirr8atEe5ezCyxenIxcaCYcbTrOV_tU3Nq1rNZtLq7qPnuB9N-4GeM_CZqMHY1BUnhJf88atyTAIG4l1ezozSj0mbsnA/s200/recluse.jpg" title="brown recluse spider" width="159" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">brown recluse spider</td></tr>
</tbody></table><p style="text-align: left;">
Mites are related to spiders but they are much more
abundant and diverse than their arachnid cousins. While all spiders are
predators (i.e. they feed on live prey) mites exhibit a range of
lifestyles from the small plant feeding <a href="http://www.livingwithbugs.com/spider_mites.html" target="_blank">spider mites</a> to tiny ectoparasitic <a href="http://www.livingwithbugs.com/scabies.html" target="_blank">scabies mites</a> and to the relatively large, free-living predatory mites that can be found in most soils.</p><p style="text-align: left;">
Mites
usually have eight legs like spiders but they don't have the distinct
separation between the head/thorax (called the "cephalothorax") and
abdomen (the part behind the legs) that is seen in spiders. Notice the
narrow "waist" between the legs and abdomen in the drawing of the brown
recluse spider (see drawing), but the lack of this same constriction in
the follicle mite (see drawing above).</p><p style="text-align: left;">
This blog is
about the mites that bite people and pets as well as those that feed on plants (plant pests). I'll
discuss the identification and new control methods for <b>scabies/mange mites</b>, <b>demodex follicle mites, chigger mites</b>, <b>ticks</b>, <b>mold/</b><b>dust mites</b> (these mites don't bite but can cause allergy), <b>bird/nest/rodent mites</b>, and <b>pymotes (pyemotes) mites</b>, and many others. </p>
<div style="background-color: #d9ead3; color: #444444; font-family: "Courier New", Courier, monospace;">
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-left: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvbzoTO-xPm3Cwoaem8DQPMhH7q1XxVIRQbQ5TaNSVgr7Q3ZvhTTdvGo_GZ_Kj4YBPfoEqdTjENK2TWMKIJbi85ndSQBgjSMkzEQgg987ju5HaMM6tRwa02s6ZneYgjB5TeLU3Fw/s1600/chigger.gif" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvbzoTO-xPm3Cwoaem8DQPMhH7q1XxVIRQbQ5TaNSVgr7Q3ZvhTTdvGo_GZ_Kj4YBPfoEqdTjENK2TWMKIJbi85ndSQBgjSMkzEQgg987ju5HaMM6tRwa02s6ZneYgjB5TeLU3Fw/s1600/chigger.gif" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">chigger mite</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h4 style="text-align: left;"><b>Seeing Mites Close-up</b></h4>
<div style="font-family: "Courier New", Courier, monospace; text-align: left;">
<p><span style="font-size: small;">Most
mites are so small you'll need some sort of magnification to tell what
you've got. Many are about the size of the period (.) on a printed page.
A good <a href="http://www.livingwithbugs.com/hand_len.html" target="_blank">hand lens</a> is sometimes enough, especially if you know what you are looking for, but a microscope may be needed to clearly see others.</span></p><span style="font-size: small;"></span><p><span style="font-size: small;"><span>Mites typically have 8 legs (4 pair) like spiders but some newly hatched mites only have 6 legs (for example <a href="http://www.livingwithbugs.com/chigger.html" target="_blank">chigger mites</a>) and some have only 2 pair (for example the plant-feeding eriophyid mites. </span></span></p><span style="font-size: small;"></span><p><span style="font-size: small;"><span>Many
mites are covered with hairs or "setae". These hairs can cause an
allergic reaction in some people. Two notable examples of this are <a href="http://www.livingwithbugs.com/mold_mites.html" target="_blank">mold mites</a> and <a href="http://www.livingwithbugs.com/dustmite.html" target="_blank">dust mites</a>, which in fact are closely related to each other.</span></span></p><span style="font-size: small;">
</span>
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></div>
</div>
<br />
<div style="background-color: #fff2cc; font-family: "Courier New", Courier, monospace;">
<h4 style="text-align: left;"><b>Collecting Mites for Identification</b></h4>
<p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: small;">A good way to collect mites is to use a <b>damp Q-tip</b> to carefully pick them up and transfer them to a vial of 70% rubbing alcohol.<b> Don't stick samples</b> to tape as this can make identification very difficult.</span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: small;">
</span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: small;">
<span>In
the US samples can often be submitted to your state university for
identification. Contact your local Cooperative Extension office
(ask.extension.org) for details. </span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: small;">
</span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: small;">
</span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: small;">
</span></p><div style="text-align: center;"><p>
<span style="font-size: small;">----------</span></p></div>
</div>
Jack DeAngelis, Ph.D.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06229569735883223879noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-23877662.post-58423740840780676642012-07-15T12:38:00.001-07:002020-12-20T09:54:02.559-08:00Underground-Nesting Yellowjacket Wasps<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaGOQiJmtPmjmvpAfXwZlLcCsz_2rlmHaY903H0DQEnLtNavZ-KnDHA6YkAETg9e_Ehq7d6ONq6_Tw_4dR-ZnGdCHjuX6mPrOxRhdC9gXXr1BQdP-Wtkcv4Ep9DqbZeKkcCpwsHg/s1600/IMG_7611.JPG" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="nest entrance at base of tree" border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaGOQiJmtPmjmvpAfXwZlLcCsz_2rlmHaY903H0DQEnLtNavZ-KnDHA6YkAETg9e_Ehq7d6ONq6_Tw_4dR-ZnGdCHjuX6mPrOxRhdC9gXXr1BQdP-Wtkcv4Ep9DqbZeKkcCpwsHg/s200/IMG_7611.JPG" title="underground wasp nest entrance" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nest entrance (lower center) at base of tree.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix3uL6zDtpl7vqAVyYqnn7kUTfMCXvk_zycSBdhyphenhyphenpPv3dN-GS1bytPsZqMIOfvt5UzBqifAzZBTGrv-2PEmMKlAg9kYWj_DKcx-pXNgwxuSxA-CDLY7jDPd1arc-OyQHGyU3OxYQ/s1600/IMG_7623.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="wasps guard nest entrance" border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix3uL6zDtpl7vqAVyYqnn7kUTfMCXvk_zycSBdhyphenhyphenpPv3dN-GS1bytPsZqMIOfvt5UzBqifAzZBTGrv-2PEmMKlAg9kYWj_DKcx-pXNgwxuSxA-CDLY7jDPd1arc-OyQHGyU3OxYQ/s200/IMG_7623.JPG" title="wasps guard underground nest entrance" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yellowjacket wasps guard entrance to nest.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">Between mid-summer and early fall <b>yellowjacket wasps that nest underground</b> can be a real threat in some areas. These yellowjacket wasps hide their nests underground, often in cavities made by decaying roots, stumps (see photo) or rodent burrows. Nests may contain <b>hundreds to thousands</b> of worker wasps that will aggressively defend the nest against all intruders. </span></p>
<p><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">When disturbed wasps can <b>swarm from this ground nest</b>. A single sting can provoke other wasps that are summoned to attack the "enemy" of the nest (for this reason always quickly leave the area if you are stung). Wasps are especially sensitive to ground vibrations or low frequency (bass) noise as this may signal an animal such as a bear or skunk trying to dig out the nest. This is why wasps will sometimes swarm in response to a careless hiker that steps on the nest entrance or the low growl of a passing lawnmower.</span></p><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
</span><br /><div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTLQuypej5ikFrNOYYNnExgAYZxnze-1j0tzSnP0EzdnFblbslDsKi8CBKWkw8zOw2lpyG0PwO8BqhXxat2ReMNQrNzqctSxznB_nrObTA7qrvh77svXQdN6GsASbNRjVEQEFP1A/s1600/IMG_7609.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="wasp nest underground" border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTLQuypej5ikFrNOYYNnExgAYZxnze-1j0tzSnP0EzdnFblbslDsKi8CBKWkw8zOw2lpyG0PwO8BqhXxat2ReMNQrNzqctSxznB_nrObTA7qrvh77svXQdN6GsASbNRjVEQEFP1A/s200/IMG_7609.JPG" title="wasp nest underground" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Notice surface of papery nest in center right.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">The nest entrance leads to a papery nest (see photo) that houses the queen and large numbers of workers and larvae (only a few males are produced at the end of the season). Nests are usually begun in the spring and will die once the weather turns cold in late fall. During mid-summer to early fall the nests will reach their maximum size.</span></p>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrP11Dd7hoYGLjKRE2BvFA0mSJaQHd4u95vSi1Re-EQ553K5WJd24NO5bLOW8j12okqqqskHViBAK0JgHT4aUzPEYN4ygrkVYhGWXnVlVgkvHjh_cdnO6yd7FHJc-WgaMP1S5Vlw/s1600/ground_nest.jpg" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrP11Dd7hoYGLjKRE2BvFA0mSJaQHd4u95vSi1Re-EQ553K5WJd24NO5bLOW8j12okqqqskHViBAK0JgHT4aUzPEYN4ygrkVYhGWXnVlVgkvHjh_cdnO6yd7FHJc-WgaMP1S5Vlw/s320/ground_nest.jpg" title="underground wasp nest structure" width="303" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ground-nest structure (drawing).</td></tr>
</tbody></table><p>
<span style="font-family: Open Sans;">The nest itself is very similar to the more familiar wasp nests that are built above ground with a papery envelope enclosing layers of cells that house larvae (see drawing). Worker wasps feed the larvae and queen as well defend the nest with a potent sting.</span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Open Sans;">Ground nests can be left alone as long as they are not in an area where they pose a threat from an unwary person. They can, however, be especially dangerous when they occur near playgrounds, picnic areas or along hiking trails.</span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: Open Sans;">Threatening nests can be destroyed by treating the nest entrance with a "Wasp & Hornet"- type insecticide. For details see "<a href="http://www.livingwithbugs.com/yel_nest.html">Treating Yellowjacket Nests</a>".</span></p><p><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">__________ </span></p></div>Jack DeAngelis, Ph.D.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06229569735883223879noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-23877662.post-40239748009470068452012-03-05T12:41:00.001-08:002020-12-20T10:17:27.857-08:00How To Identify A Bug Online<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkIXKnZO55aDHYkHsewBQNdRrStyobO7TUWBQrxsmb8sOepM-MbBncZeTGpqDAMKHgafhsk6pP5HgzfWCJSDKlqBV4TzDZSwXNuKVVnRxf751ivS9nGdUVuw7ptPYHthcaHbfDuQ/s1600/bird_mite.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="121" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkIXKnZO55aDHYkHsewBQNdRrStyobO7TUWBQrxsmb8sOepM-MbBncZeTGpqDAMKHgafhsk6pP5HgzfWCJSDKlqBV4TzDZSwXNuKVVnRxf751ivS9nGdUVuw7ptPYHthcaHbfDuQ/s200/bird_mite.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">hummingbird mite and human hair</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;"><b>Scenario:</b> You've found a bug in your home that you don't recognize. You ask yourself "Is this bug <b>dangerous</b>, a threat to my family? Could it <b>damage</b> my house?" <b>Where can you go to get answers and reassurance?</b></span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
One option is to call a local pest control company (exterminator) but this may not be your best option. Keep in mind that while many pest control companies will give you honest, expert answers to your questions, their bias and their <i>business</i>, is to sell treatments not information. In the worst case they may sell you treatments that are not entirely necessary.</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
Your best option (in the US) is to contact your local Cooperative Extension office (do a google search for "<b>find local extension office</b>"). <b>Every</b> US county has an <b>Extension Office</b> that serves to connect the local community to the subject matter specialists at the state agricultural university. The Extension office can get you in touch with experts at the university that can assist you with your bug questions, and these services are usually free. Many states maintain an "Insect Clinic" to which bug samples can be submitted for identification.</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
One caveat - <b>Extension can be slow</b> especially during the spring and summer when most of their staff time is consumed by commercial agriculture clients.</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
</span></span></p><h4 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
<span><b>What if you want to do it yourself?</b></span></span></span></h4><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
You'll need a good hand lens (magnifier) and some reference guide books to start. Nowadays most bug questions can be answered with resources available <b>online</b> if you know where to look.</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
</span></span></p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-left: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody></tbody></table><p style="text-align: left;">
</p><div style="text-align: left;"><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4VYOoh7uSzb0j1lTUZBGxzBsWr0Nh-3bgTbZBI9wpzxMbl_OCFJ6i_ZsaXz6KKWDbJgMS99ScE57eAHhSEfcd_4OwgXC9BMIEud4lW9OWK6dOu_GubGAUQpQp95DTQGVtosF_NQ/s1600/dog_tick_engorged.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="157" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4VYOoh7uSzb0j1lTUZBGxzBsWr0Nh-3bgTbZBI9wpzxMbl_OCFJ6i_ZsaXz6KKWDbJgMS99ScE57eAHhSEfcd_4OwgXC9BMIEud4lW9OWK6dOu_GubGAUQpQp95DTQGVtosF_NQ/s200/dog_tick_engorged.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">tick under flashlight light</span></span></td></tr></tbody></table><p><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;"></span></span></p></div><p style="text-align: left;">
</p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-left: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><p><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;"><br /></span></span></p><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p style="text-align: left;">
</p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-left: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody></tbody></table><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
<b>First,</b> get a <b>good photograph</b> of your subject bug and/or of the damage/injury you suspect is bug-caused. Even moderately-priced digital cameras usually have some kind of "macro" function which allows you to get a close-up picture. The image of the mite above was taken with an inexpensive digital camera in "macro" mode then enlarged with simple photo editing software.</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">If you need more light on your subject an ordinary flashlight works well (see photo of tick).</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
</span></span></p><h4 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
<span><b>Online "bug identification" resources </b></span></span></span></h4><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
<a href="http://bugguide.net/" target="_blank">BugGuide</a> - a large database of images catalogued taxonomically. An excellent resource if you have a pretty good idea of what you are looking for and just need an image for comparison. Does not accept images for id but you can post an image which other users may comment on.</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
<a href="http://www.livingwithbugs.com/" target="_blank">LivingWithBugs</a> - this is my own site about home and garden bugs.</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
<a href="http://www.whatsthatbug.com/" target="_blank">What'sThatBug</a> - images can be submitted for id but not all submissions are accepted because of their limited staff. Excellent photos for comparison but like BugGuide you'll need to know what you are looking for.</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">__________ <br /></span></span></p><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
</span></span>
<br />Jack DeAngelis, Ph.D.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06229569735883223879noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-23877662.post-15257073545313738112012-03-04T12:55:00.004-08:002020-12-20T11:03:23.471-08:00Mold Mites In Homes<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhv1U3HJEcw97wRiltn-BfeS2YFBPdeWJ3IQV3dZk5NRIyI6jRK6kIXglwNqIoVnBuOYKtr4UyGXLus3IxVKwfsvop8ol3bJ-p0V8jFSt0paYtn-ygOST_MszA51A9iVpk4lHyyvg/s1600/mite_ld.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhv1U3HJEcw97wRiltn-BfeS2YFBPdeWJ3IQV3dZk5NRIyI6jRK6kIXglwNqIoVnBuOYKtr4UyGXLus3IxVKwfsvop8ol3bJ-p0V8jFSt0paYtn-ygOST_MszA51A9iVpk4lHyyvg/s200/mite_ld.jpg" width="147" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">mold/grain mite</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">The tiny white/tan "bugs" that people find swarming over surfaces often turn out to be <b>mold mites</b> (also spelled mould mites). Since the mites are also attracted to warm surfaces they may appear to be infesting electronics like computers and televisions as well. </span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
When found in homes mold mites are usually associated with some type of <b>moisture issue</b> which has caused mold growth. The moisture source can be as simple as a leaky pipe or as difficult as a leaky roof or foundation. The mites feed on the mold and populations can grow rapidly. The mites are tiny, and usually white or tan in color, and have very long "hairs", or setae.</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
See <a href="http://www.livingwithbugs.com/mold_mites.html" target="_blank">Mold Mites In Homes</a> for additional life history and control information.</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
Mold mites are sometimes called "<b>grain mites</b>" because they also commonly occur in grain storage warehouses on the surface of grain sacks.</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
<b>The mites are harmless</b>. They <b>don't bite or cause structural damage</b>. However, the long body hairs can contribute to <b>indoor allergens</b> when the broken-off hairs become airborne. The mites are generally an indication of a mold/moisture problem which is usually more of a concern than the mites themselves. No treatment is needed other than reduction in moisture.</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
See the "<b>Mold Mites In Homes</b>" article cited above for more information. </span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;"></span></span></p><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
</span></span><br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
---------- </div>Jack DeAngelis, Ph.D.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06229569735883223879noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-23877662.post-55499825627934374262011-10-20T11:37:00.001-07:002020-12-20T11:11:45.883-08:00Kudzu Bug - A Small, Brown, "Lady Bug" That Invades Homes and Gardens<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvrVG_ZZQ_91WV53VUE7yA1dXrRgLr2PjbX6Cfyn_rdTzD3S3LhfQeqTpXhDyqXUZev5VEnVkM3jGXXgxHYoCHnUKL4a0tXoChrlpWKkBN3TldZQOGe3kyEreSm5AGS0UrROg3CA/s1600/kudzu_bug.JPG" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvrVG_ZZQ_91WV53VUE7yA1dXrRgLr2PjbX6Cfyn_rdTzD3S3LhfQeqTpXhDyqXUZev5VEnVkM3jGXXgxHYoCHnUKL4a0tXoChrlpWKkBN3TldZQOGe3kyEreSm5AGS0UrROg3CA/s320/kudzu_bug.JPG" width="232" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kudzu bugs clustered on wisteria. </td></tr>
</tbody></table><p><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">If you live in the <b>south-eastern US</b> you may have noticed a new insect this summer and fall (see photo): the insect is called the <b>kudzu bug</b> (<i>Megacopta cribraria</i>) and is characterized by -</span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
</span></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><p><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">small, brownish/green in color </span></p></li></ul><p style="text-align: left;">
</p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><p><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">shaped sort-of like a ladybug</span></p></li></ul><p style="text-align: left;">
</p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><p><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">not seen prior to about 2 years ago </span></p></li></ul><p style="text-align: left;">
</p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><p><span style="font-family: Open Sans;"><b>invades homes in the fall</b></span></p></li></ul><p style="text-align: left;">
</p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><p><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">congregates on garden plants, and especially, <b>kudzu vine</b> (For those that don't live in the southern US, kudzu is a highly invasive weedy vine, "<i>the vine that ate the south</i>!", that grows everywhere, on everything.)</span></p></li></ul><p style="text-align: left;">
</p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><p><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">a new and important pest of soybean </span></p></li></ul><p style="text-align: left;">
</p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">This true bug (Hemiptera) resembles a ladybug (a cocinellid <i>beetle</i>) in size and shape, but not color (see <a href="http://www.livingwithbugs.com/harmonia.html" target="_blank">this page</a> for a picture of a real ladybug/lady beetle). Also, you don't generally find ladybugs clustered together like you see in the photo.</span></p><p><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
This a new "lady bug" has some unpleasant characteristics. (1) Feeds on and weakens <b>garden plants</b> as well as some agricultural crops, like soybean, in addition to weedy plants like kudzu; (2) produces a distinctive, strong odour when disturbed; (3) <b>congregates on houses in the fall</b> when air temperatures start to drop. This final characteristic of "invading" homes in the fall is the one that many people will notice first.</span></p><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
</span><div><p><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
The kudzu bug was first found in north-eastern Georgia in 2009 but has since spread to North Carolina, South Carolina, Alabama and will likely spread to all south-eastern states in time, anywhere kudzu grows.</span></p><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
</span></div><div><h4 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
<b>Kudzu bugs as nuisance pests</b></span></h4><p><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
Because the kudzu bug arrived in North America without the natural enemies that would normally keep populations in check in their native lands (Asia), this bug has seen explosive growth. After feeding and multiplying all summer the population of kudzu bugs in an area can be large. Then as the air temperatures begin to decline in fall these bugs move from their host plants and seek shelter for winter months. They often congregate on houses just like similar bugs such as the <b>brown marmorated stink bug</b> of the northeastern US and the <a href="http://www.livingwithbugs.com/boxelder.html" target="_blank">boxelder bug</a>. And, like these others kudzu bugs are harmless to people and homes but can be a significant nuisance to homeowners when they congregate on siding, and enter walls and attic spaces.</span></p><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
</span></div><div><h4 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
<b>What should you do?</b></span></h4><p><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
Treat kudzu bug invasions like you would boxelder bugs or brown marmorated stink bugs - see <a href="http://www.livingwithbugs.com/boxelder.html" target="_blank">How to Manage Boxelder Bug Invasions</a> for details. Eventually the numbers of kudzu bug will decline as native predators and parasites discover this new insect and adapt to it. Until then, at least it is impacting the growth of kudzu vine!</span></p><p><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">__________ <br /></span></p></div>Jack DeAngelis, Ph.D.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06229569735883223879noreply@blogger.com36tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-23877662.post-57980344887373941542011-08-27T11:42:00.002-07:002020-12-20T11:19:32.500-08:00Pictures of Bed Bugs Biting and Chigger Bites<p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;"></span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdh4Rbbli4mdfBGSxNYQVdsogY3CDB6PtAoT_l83KHx1IAgTROm9x51-Yu3nfEsWuDYcRZfzvYjPYRaMiBSqD00ULSbtZiGcnH8lbSUJra5lECLIhmlDIVhx4Q8XKi5mTG425Jgg/s100/bed_bug_drawing.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="95" data-original-width="100" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdh4Rbbli4mdfBGSxNYQVdsogY3CDB6PtAoT_l83KHx1IAgTROm9x51-Yu3nfEsWuDYcRZfzvYjPYRaMiBSqD00ULSbtZiGcnH8lbSUJra5lECLIhmlDIVhx4Q8XKi5mTG425Jgg/s0/bed_bug_drawing.jpg" /></a></span></span></div><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;"><br />I've just posted incredible close-up pictures of <a href="http://www.livingwithbugs.com/bed_bug_pictures.html" target="_blank">bed bugs in the act of biting</a> and <a href="http://www.livingwithbugs.com/chigger_bite_pictures.html" target="_blank">early and late-stage chigger bites</a> at our <b>'Bugs site</b>. I found these images at the <a href="http://phil.cdc.gov/phil/home.asp" target="_blank">CDC Public Health Image Database</a>.</span></span><p></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
For life history, identification, and treatment of rooms for bed bugs see <a href="http://www.livingwithbugs.com/bed_bug.html" target="_blank">this page</a>. And, you may wish to visit the main <a href="http://www.livingwithbugs.com/chigger.html" target="_blank">chigger mite</a> page for life history of these biting mites.</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">__________ <br /></span></span></p>Jack DeAngelis, Ph.D.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06229569735883223879noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-23877662.post-29487314652211012802011-07-26T10:46:00.001-07:002020-12-21T07:57:01.771-08:00Ant Problem in the Kitchen, Home or Apartment<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0fd1m-7McAbX_9JRuYeSPz6n6cKcOjx7AAT1V9fan_2JJDcdKNiYELxw2Jc9EbgBooOkTD4cZ7-C7-gWDBWrk_r0eHcj9KEZ-ARS0pJLiS1tDPWpg8Qpg-tBSOUvylkZWCKCE1g/s1600/ant_bait.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="182" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0fd1m-7McAbX_9JRuYeSPz6n6cKcOjx7AAT1V9fan_2JJDcdKNiYELxw2Jc9EbgBooOkTD4cZ7-C7-gWDBWrk_r0eHcj9KEZ-ARS0pJLiS1tDPWpg8Qpg-tBSOUvylkZWCKCE1g/s200/ant_bait.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">ants feeding on sugary bait</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">Sooner or later almost everyone experiences <b>ant problems</b> in their home or apartment. Ants often invade<b> kitchens</b> first but can spread to other areas of the home as well. They are several different species of <b>tiny black/brown ants that enter homes</b> in search of food and water.</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
Ant colonies can be located in the soil around and beneath the structure but they can also be in the <b>walls </b>and/or <b>ceiling</b>.</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
</span></span></p><h4 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
<span>Ant Colonies and Ant Control</span></span></span></h4><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
All ants live in complex, highly organized colonies where <i>workers</i> gather food and water for the developing young and the egg-laying queen. The trick with any successful ant control program is to use the worker ants to collect food for the colony that has been combined with an insecticide. The bait is fed to developing young and the queen thus disrupting the entire colony. <b>Spray insecticides, on the other hand, do not work well against household nuisance ants because ants can detect and avoid areas that have been treated</b>.</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
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The least expensive ant bait is a sugary liquid that has been combined with boric acid. This is the standard recipe for products like Terro (tm) but this type of bait can also be home-made (see <a href="http://www.livingwithbugs.com/ant_bait.html">Home-Made Ant Baits</a> for more information). Sugar-based boric acid baits work well for small, active colonies but may not be effective against large, stubborn infestations, and against certain species that are not attracted to sugary foods.</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
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In the last few years a new type of ant bait has become available to home-owners. These baits are typically supplied in tubes that look like large hypodermic syringes, without the needles, or single-use trays (bait stations). The tubes/trays contain a paste or gel that has been combined with an insecticide, or <b>insect growth regulator</b>. Since the attractiveness of an individual bait will vary between different species it may be necessary to try several different baits until you find the one that your ants will most readily accept. See <a href="http://astore.amazon.com/livingwithbug-20/176-1044086-6718951?_encoding=UTF8&node=27">Professional Ant Baits</a> for more information.</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
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<span>Using Ant Baits</span></span></span></h4><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
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</p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><p><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">Place baits near established ant trails and don't disturb these trails. </span></span></p></li></ul><p style="text-align: left;">
</p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><p><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">Do not contaminate the area with spray insecticides as this may prevent ants from finding and accepting the baits.</span></span></p></li></ul><p style="text-align: left;">
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As always <b>Read and Follow</b> package instructions carefully, especially regarding bait placement. </span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;"> Continue reading --> <a href="http://www.livingwithbugs.com/ant_control.html">Controlling Household Nuisance Ants</a> for more detailed information and precautions.</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">__________ <br /></span></span></p>Jack DeAngelis, Ph.D.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06229569735883223879noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-23877662.post-87581835746264038902011-07-21T10:08:00.001-07:002020-12-21T08:00:06.502-08:00Tiny Jumping Bugs In Homes and Yards - Springtails<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwPskGQrDwGDurmUzK4Pa_icdaYgSOCQV-lQL4G1xNwHw4vzlDjuGbLS6AQwmTVtYyYujNhhWBVI63TKf46HEIupvv908NjRtRE4r6O4Af5WWuc1CJYld2ggIeiNTa4Cl5NqUGJQ/s1600/collembola_sara.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="152" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwPskGQrDwGDurmUzK4Pa_icdaYgSOCQV-lQL4G1xNwHw4vzlDjuGbLS6AQwmTVtYyYujNhhWBVI63TKf46HEIupvv908NjRtRE4r6O4Af5WWuc1CJYld2ggIeiNTa4Cl5NqUGJQ/s200/collembola_sara.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">close-up of springtail/collembola</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">I get questions through my <a href="http://www.livingwithbugs.com/ec.html" target="_blank">'Bugs</a> site every week about <b>tiny jumping bugs in people's homes</b>. The questions usually start something like: "<i>I've found tiny jumping bugs on my _____, what are they and what should I do?</i>" Since there are only a few small insects that actually jump or hop when disturbed this question is pretty easy to answer even without a good photo.</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
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These tiny critters are called <b>springtails</b>, or <b>collembola</b>, and they are not really insects at all but rather primitive <i>soil micro-arthropods</i> (a distinction that is only of interest to an entomologist!).</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
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See <a href="http://www.livingwithbugs.com/springtails.html" target="_blank">Springtails In Homes and Gardens</a> for more pictures and life history. </span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
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Springtails live in soil where they feed on bacteria, fungi, and occasionally plant roots. They are harmless to plants and even beneficial to healthy soils. Very large populations can build in highly organic soils. They are most often noticed following heavy rains when they are washed out of the soil by flooding and concentrate where rain water pools.</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
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Springtails can enter homes when outside soils are saturated following heavy rains, or they can be brought in with house plant soil. Again, they are <b>completely harmless</b> and can be simply swept up when found.<br /></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;"></span></span></p><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
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Jack DeAngelis, Ph.D.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06229569735883223879noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-23877662.post-61055944949988825842011-07-19T09:55:00.002-07:002020-12-21T08:38:47.668-08:00Tiny, Yellow, Biting Bugs<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgO8l-dLGaLeLcCwGKrzHIZEBwZLjVdsNxfFcOxPfCHgkNQSnEocZ1NwSuAMKRnfL95l-uFV4n6Up6uWa3qazwOliJPRc3iENT0udgeauDyrd-JpCa6wCnGVlfuceIP8qQ6HM-7A/s1600/wft.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="139" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgO8l-dLGaLeLcCwGKrzHIZEBwZLjVdsNxfFcOxPfCHgkNQSnEocZ1NwSuAMKRnfL95l-uFV4n6Up6uWa3qazwOliJPRc3iENT0udgeauDyrd-JpCa6wCnGVlfuceIP8qQ6HM-7A/s200/wft.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">a thrips next to a leaf vein</td></tr>
</tbody></table><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">Have you every felt a sharp pinch while outside during summer only to find a<b> tiny, yellow, sliver-like bug</b> when you investigate the bite?</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
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These bites are from a tiny insect called a <b>thrips</b> (the name is always plural; one thrips, many thrips).</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
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Thrips normally feed on plants with very sharp, knife-like mouthparts. If they happen to land on us they can bite causing a sharp, stabbing pain. The bites are annoying but <b>completely harmless</b> and are more common in mid- to late summer. Unfortunately, insect repellents don't work against thrips.</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;"><b>Continue reading</b> to discover ways to avoid <a href="http://www.livingwithbugs.com/thrips.html" target="_blank">thrips bites at our 'Bugs website</a>.</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">Thrips can be important plant pests where they damage leaves and in some cases even infect plants with a virus. Greenhouse growers in particular often treat their crops with insecticide to prevent thrips damage. </span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
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</p><div style="text-align: left;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXDU9QnbwOUBvtGmA-0SrJJbJi8LiO3SUz7Oj6QBdS-BH9BtQa3hQvFA982hdXveU-Sdyq8A9FWZRZ4DZsMbRVcumhupVXAw7dCuKH-ZSnZ1LUJHzH9Ue54WNoUb_zd22XotobJw/s1600/thrips.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="173" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXDU9QnbwOUBvtGmA-0SrJJbJi8LiO3SUz7Oj6QBdS-BH9BtQa3hQvFA982hdXveU-Sdyq8A9FWZRZ4DZsMbRVcumhupVXAw7dCuKH-ZSnZ1LUJHzH9Ue54WNoUb_zd22XotobJw/s200/thrips.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">drawing showing feathery wings</span></span></td></tr></tbody></table><p><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;"></span></span></p></div><p style="text-align: left;">
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</span></span></p>Jack DeAngelis, Ph.D.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06229569735883223879noreply@blogger.com23tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-23877662.post-66485681346601274292011-07-13T12:35:00.002-07:002020-12-24T13:09:04.887-08:00Bugs That Look Like Bed Bugs<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioz6mUzULxMK0kTAh5aXb98ByzBFzrQ6lvh1YrbnPw8pw4ta8_bO5B6c95rjKcdnrzlCud2rBtyW5p4SFt3OOdsoLRoxJkfRX9RUcEpDgjUHVAJ1I0l27-1fUQd-NVVusUzisjMg/s1600/bed_bug_drawing.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioz6mUzULxMK0kTAh5aXb98ByzBFzrQ6lvh1YrbnPw8pw4ta8_bO5B6c95rjKcdnrzlCud2rBtyW5p4SFt3OOdsoLRoxJkfRX9RUcEpDgjUHVAJ1I0l27-1fUQd-NVVusUzisjMg/s1600/bed_bug_drawing.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">bed bug (drawing)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">Bed bugs are pretty easy to distinguish from other insects that you may find around homes. First, since <b>bed bugs can't fly </b>they are confined to areas near the floor and often close to places where people sleep. You won't find bed bugs crawling across the floor or flying around a light! Second, bed bugs are large enough to be easily seen, about 1/4" as adults, and are a distinctive <b>chestnut brown color</b>.</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
Take a look at <a href="http://www.livingwithbugs.com/bed_bug_pictures.html" target="_blank">this page</a> for close-up pictures of bed bugs actually feeding. </span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZ61fWEu4zBrt2_B3LBfUvS8BWruRdMHDJsntn3Y40NjKoyMDhpT9hBf2nlrFD18qFN3og4gwxq3apzdL2wYgVW65__125CzEg9VVqm9pEmug-vlovw8RnZQ0Cpb8B_XAgDJ7Gqw/s1600/bed_bug_bites_mattress.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZ61fWEu4zBrt2_B3LBfUvS8BWruRdMHDJsntn3Y40NjKoyMDhpT9hBf2nlrFD18qFN3og4gwxq3apzdL2wYgVW65__125CzEg9VVqm9pEmug-vlovw8RnZQ0Cpb8B_XAgDJ7Gqw/w254-h320/bed_bug_bites_mattress.jpg" width="254" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">bed bug hiding places, bites</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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Bed bugs hide during daylight hours in cracks and crevices around bedding and in folds of mattresses. These areas will also generally show <b>dark stains</b> caused by their fecal matter (digested blood, see drawing below). Finally, <b>bed bug bites look like bad mosquito bites</b> on most people. Some people, however, don't show the characteristic bites and some lucky folks hardly react at all. </span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;"><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjj21LiWpyvnvdZLLQgvw-5scCAJfeyBW6wxSrsJyoUVsl-A1ZpC2kHZQJvbmtCO7xw8dp67vuayGvGypQ8EYDuYuvfUy1Con_F9HKBMfgb2xL8ID5IgvOIGnjwN-qnhJnJ9ih86w/s1600/bed_bug.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjj21LiWpyvnvdZLLQgvw-5scCAJfeyBW6wxSrsJyoUVsl-A1ZpC2kHZQJvbmtCO7xw8dp67vuayGvGypQ8EYDuYuvfUy1Con_F9HKBMfgb2xL8ID5IgvOIGnjwN-qnhJnJ9ih86w/w320-h240/bed_bug.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">nearly full grown bed bug ~ 1/4"<br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table></span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">If bed bugs are found they can generally be managed with simple <a href="http://www.livingwithbugs.com/bed_bug_extermination.html">control methods</a> <b>so long as the infestation is caught at an early stage</b>.</span></span></p>Jack DeAngelis, Ph.D.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06229569735883223879noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-23877662.post-13222933683321243342011-07-09T11:02:00.003-07:002020-12-24T13:41:02.657-08:00Tiny, White, Bugs In Homes - What Are They?<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3iKlhylyF0kPHQ9drYCXQqZsQy3duBwK5Z71mrhxJsc5VgOZmqU-sNsdhRPVUpEE0LrnjFAutU3zD7LhwMbVm03HDXzdrbpo93nIoTLsiAzA6KZXM4U6gHI6mMnMfsgNf_4stUw/s1600/mite_ld.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3iKlhylyF0kPHQ9drYCXQqZsQy3duBwK5Z71mrhxJsc5VgOZmqU-sNsdhRPVUpEE0LrnjFAutU3zD7LhwMbVm03HDXzdrbpo93nIoTLsiAzA6KZXM4U6gHI6mMnMfsgNf_4stUw/s1600/mite_ld.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">mold mite (drawing)</td></tr>
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<p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">Have you ever found <b>tiny white bugs</b> crawling on the kitchen counter or over a sack of pet food, or on your computer keyboard, or in some similar situation? The bugs are too small to see clearly and are often described as "salt" or "sugar" <b>that moves</b>! If you look very close, with a magnifying glass, you'll probably see long "hairs" from tiny round whitish bodies.</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
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There are a couple of things that people describe this way but in my experience <b>mold mites (or mould mites)</b>, also called <b>grain mites</b>, are the most common.</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
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These tiny mites feed on mold that grows on damp surfaces so are almost always associated with excess moisture and mold growth in one way or another. Their presence in kitchens can indicate a <b>leaky pipe</b> or leaky dishwasher.</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">Mold mites don't bite or cause any real harm but <b>some people will experience an allergic reaction</b> to large numbers of mites similar to dust mite allergy. <i>In fact mold mites are related to dust mites.</i> This allergic reaction can be as simple as a stuffy noise or an <b>itchy rash</b> or even difficulty breathing. </span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
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The only treatment that is needed is to <b>control the sources of moisture</b>. Once the area dries out and can no longer support the growth of mold the mites will go away. After all sources of moisture are eliminated the area can be treated with a <a href="http://www.livingwithbugs.com/botanical_insecticide.html" target="_blank">botanical insecticide</a> like <a href="https://shrsl.com/2p0lj" target="_blank"><b>EcoPCO-ARX</b></a> to control remaining mites.</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">In situations where a relatively small amount of material is moldy and shows
signs of <b>mold/grain mite</b> activity the best treatment is <b>may be heat</b> or <b>cold</b>.
For example a bag of grain or dry pet food could be either heated </span></span><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;"> (130-150
deg. F) </span></span>or frozen and
this would eliminate the mites. Heating might also dry out the material and thus
completely eliminate the problem. If freezing treatment is used it must be long
enough to freeze to the center of the bag. Same caution with heating, long enough to heat the center of the bag. <b>Both procedures assume that
heat or cold won't damage the product</b>. Seeds for example could be damaged by either heat or cold. <br /></span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
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</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">Continue exploring at our <a href="http://www.livingwithbugs.com/index.html" target="_blank">'Bugs Website</a> for information about other insect and mite pests.</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">__________ <br /></span></span></p>
Jack DeAngelis, Ph.D.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06229569735883223879noreply@blogger.com20tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-23877662.post-22800763067646020662011-06-18T18:22:00.002-07:002020-12-21T09:07:28.646-08:00Indoor Spider Control/Spider Traps<h4 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;"><b><span>"Wandering-Type" Spiders</span></b></span></span></h4><h4 style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;"><b><span> </span></b></span></span></h4>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjo3vu-Ic1xPP47pKnsJLkt3ED_pXjmQy5S2_01Dpkgs-uT6J3csRpRuXynXMRcNaUEBAEYjLqmFkIXUBks-Ach_ufs5xYN6pX7Gmnaa__5cQ7jEtjJBGMFYUs6aT176lZzdGYH5A/s1600/recluse.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjo3vu-Ic1xPP47pKnsJLkt3ED_pXjmQy5S2_01Dpkgs-uT6J3csRpRuXynXMRcNaUEBAEYjLqmFkIXUBks-Ach_ufs5xYN6pX7Gmnaa__5cQ7jEtjJBGMFYUs6aT176lZzdGYH5A/s200/recluse.jpg" width="159" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">brown recluse spider</td></tr>
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<p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">Most spiders spin a web and stay close to the web for much of their lives. A few don't spin webs or don't stay close to the ones they do spin. These spiders are more active hunters and tend to "wander" into homes more often than the less active type.</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
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The term "wandering spider" is not a taxonomic classification but rather refers to this more active, hunting behavior. Two wandering-type spiders in particular, the <a href="http://www.livingwithbugs.com/brown_recluse_spiders.html">brown recluse spider</a> and the <a href="http://www.livingwithbugs.com/hobo_spider.html">hobo spider</a>, are noteworthy because they may also be venomous.</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
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<b><span>Sticky Spider Traps</span></b></span></span></h4><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
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Sticky spider traps are generally considered to be the best way to reduce the number of wandering-type spiders in homes. Not only are traps effective but since they contain no pesticides they are very safe to use.</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
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Sticky traps are very simple, consisting of a cardboard tube that is partly coated inside with a sticky material. The spiders wander into the tube at one end, but never make it out. Traps are inexpensive but can also be home-made (see <a href="http://www.livingwithbugs.com/spider_tp.html">Making Sticky Spider Traps</a>). Place traps along walls where spiders tend to move and behind furniture. Replace traps when they become full of debris.</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
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<b><span>Foundation "Perimeter" Treatment</span></b></span></span></h4><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
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If you are finding more than just the occasional spider indoors, or you are especially sensitive to them, consider treating the exterior of your home with an insecticide barrier. This barrier will slow the movement of wandering-type spiders from outside to inside. To establish the barrier you'll need to spray a 6"-12" band of insecticide on the foundation starting from where the house siding ends to the soil (this is sometimes called a "perimeter spray"). <a href="http://shrsl.com/1gmjp" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Onslaught Microencapsulated Insecticide</a> is a good choice for this application because the microencapsulation makes it long-lasting compared to non-encapsulated insecticides.</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">__________ <br /></span></span></p>Jack DeAngelis, Ph.D.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06229569735883223879noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-23877662.post-50592459787866708932011-06-17T10:52:00.001-07:002020-12-21T10:34:03.317-08:00Yellowjacket Wasp Control In Vineyards With Poison Baits<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGCe7pRfY90FObzMnStLWA-suUTB8tlPltTuwXKH9DPUhK72Q1QeCfTsA1WKvt-Mbj7W_9TBaDA6CM0yOc3Pik1AvLemjWoAF57gymd8GT-f6Z9vflp33PT5CkmIYNhZBI2Syb3A/s1600/yj_nest.jpg" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGCe7pRfY90FObzMnStLWA-suUTB8tlPltTuwXKH9DPUhK72Q1QeCfTsA1WKvt-Mbj7W_9TBaDA6CM0yOc3Pik1AvLemjWoAF57gymd8GT-f6Z9vflp33PT5CkmIYNhZBI2Syb3A/s1600/yj_nest.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">aerial wasp nest</td></tr>
</tbody></table><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;"><b>Yellowjacket wasps</b> (social wasps in the family Vespidae) are significant pests in <b>grape vineyards</b> both in terms of the direct damage they do to fruit and also the impact their aggressive, territorial behavior has on vineyard worker productivity and safety.</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
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<span><b>Fruit Damage </b></span></span></span></h4><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
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Most wasp species forage for live prey, mostly other insects, as well as carrion and plant sap. Maturing grapes are a source of plant sap and wasps will tear the outer skin to get at the grape juice inside causing <b>yield and quality losses</b>. Since wasp nests reach their maximum size about the time grapes mature, this damage can be significant in some varieties, in some years.</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
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<span><b>Worker Productivity and Safety</b></span></span></span></h4><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
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The social wasps build large communal colonies (nests) consisting of hundreds to thousands of individual wasps each capable of delivering a painful sting to an intruder. These colonies are built both above ground (aerial nests), and below ground in abandoned rodent burrows or other cavities (ground nests). Nests are aggressively defended against intruders and even a slight disturbance can cause a swarming attack of the intruder. These large, aggressive colonies can be a <b>hazard to vineyard workers</b> and can slow or even stop a work crew. Multiple stings from swarming wasps can be a medical emergency as well, especially if the victim is allergic to wasp venom. </span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
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For these reasons vineyards have tried to manage wasp nests in a variety of ways. Some managers depend on early season capture of queens prior to nest establishment while other vineyards use a kind of seek and destroy strategy for existing nests during the summer.</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
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<span><b>Poison Baits to the Rescue</b></span></span></span></h4><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
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Until about 10 years ago some growers used poison baits to control yellowjacket wasps in vineyards and orchards. At the time there was an insecticide that could legally be used to prepare a poison bait that when deployed in vineyards and orchards significantly reduced yellowjacket activity, sometimes for several years following a successful baiting program. The baiting technology was inexpensive and had virtually no effect on non-target organisms or the environment***. About ten years ago this pesticide was removed from the market, for reasons unrelated to its use in wasp baits, and there has been no replacement until now.</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
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<b>Onslaught Microencapsulated Insecticide</b> is now labelled for use in preparing poison bait for yellowjacket control (<i>read and follow label instructions</i>). See<a href="http://www.livingwithbugs.com/yellowjacket_bait.html"> Using Poison Bait To Control Yellowjacket Wasp Nests</a> for details regarding bait preparation and deployment.</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
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One or two bait stations per acre (see page cited above) should be sufficient to maintain control in most situations. Start baiting about mid-summer, replace baits about every three days until the level of control you want is achieved. Don't start earlier than mid-summer since the low number of foraging yellowjackets prior to this time will limit the effectiveness of the bait. </span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
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<span>***Because all wasps on predators they are considered beneficial insects, especially in agricultural systems. This benefit, however, must be weight against the potential for losses as outlined above.</span></span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
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</span></span></p><div style="text-align: center;"><p><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">----------</span></span></p></div>Jack DeAngelis, Ph.D.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06229569735883223879noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-23877662.post-178707038404303452011-06-09T11:26:00.002-07:002020-12-21T10:48:21.370-08:00Wood Treatment With Bora Care or TimBor<p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">Boric acid, or borate salt, is an excellent <b>wood preservative</b>, <b>fungicide</b> (kills rot fungi) and <b>insecticide</b>. It is very low toxicity, has low environmental impact and is relatively cheap. It is an ideal material for treating both hardwood and softwood against attack by fungi (<a href="http://www.livingwithbugs.com/dry-rot.html" target="_blank">dry rot fungi</a>), and insects. The only real downside is that borate compounds are generally <b>water soluble</b> so must be used in dry environments or protected with a finish of some kind that seals them in the wood.</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
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Borates are available as dry powders (<a href="http://www.livingwithbugs.com/timbor.html">TimBor</a> and others) or as glycol-based liquid concentrates (<a href="http://www.livingwithbugs.com/bora_care.html" target="_blank">Bora Care</a> and others). Glycol is intended to improve the penetration of borate into wood fibers but studies have not definitively demonstrated an advantage over simple water solutions. Glycol-based products are also somewhat more expensive than powder forms.</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
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Both TimBor and Bora Care should be applied to dry, unfinished wood surfaces with a pump sprayer or paint roller. Two coats are sometimes needed (see product label). Powder forms like TimBor can also be applied as a dry powder to wall voids for carpenter ant treatments.</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
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Borate wood treatments are generally not available in stores but are available <a href="http://shrsl.com/1gml2" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">here</a> (DoMyOwn.com, our affiliate).</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
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Jack DeAngelis, Ph.D.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06229569735883223879noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-23877662.post-5104282961949134542011-06-07T12:33:00.001-07:002020-12-21T14:30:22.016-08:00Small, Brown, Hardshell Bugs!<p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">Have you ever found <b>small, brown, slow-moving bugs</b> crawling around your house that appear to have a <b>hard-shell</b>? If you look closely the hard cover appears to be split down the back.</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
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These are beetles, probably one of several "stored product" beetles that infest dry foods and natural fabrics. If the beetles appear black, or mottled with red/gray/black, instead of brown they are probably one of the dermestid (Dermestidae) <a href="http://www.livingwithbugs.com/carpet_beetle.html" target="_blank">carpet beetles</a> but the brown ones are likely one of the anobiid (Anobiidae) beetles, for example the<a href="http://www.livingwithbugs.com/cigarette_drugstore_beetle.html" target="_blank"> cigarette or drugstore beetles</a>.</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
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If the brown/black beetle has a tan stripe across the back it is probably the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dermestidae#Larder_beetles" target="_blank">larder beetle</a>, another one of the dermestid beetles. </span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
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This very large and diverse group of beetles are specialist scavengers on dead plant and animal products. They evolved as nature's master "recyclers" that help breakdown and decompose dead plant and animal tissue. If you think about it from the beetle's point of view a piece of wool cloth (or animal carrion) or a dog biscuit (or cache of seeds) is just another dead animal or plant, and something good to eat.</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
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The larvae of these beetles do most of the "recycling" work whereas the adults are simply there to ensure the next generation. Depending on species, larvae can survive on a wide range or natural plant and animal matter, from cereal stored in cupboard to the wool rug in the den. In more natural situations they would feast on dead plant material or animal carcasses.</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
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When you find the beetles indoors it usually means there's an infestation somewhere in the house. The beetles are harmless but obviously if the infestation is large damage can be done to your stored food or natural fabrics.</span></span></p><p style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
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See the pages cited above for ways to detect and manage infestations of stored product beetles. Once the infestation is found and cleaned up you can treat the surrounding area with one of the new <a href="http://www.livingwithbugs.com/botanical_insecticide.html" target="_blank">botanical insecticides</a> like EcoPCO AR-X to eliminate any stragglers that may have been missed.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;"></span></span></p><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Open Sans;">
</span></span><br />Jack DeAngelis, Ph.D.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06229569735883223879noreply@blogger.com7